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T-TopFlyer
10-08-2007, 12:15 PM
I have a 3 inch downpipe, testpipe and 2 and 3/4 inch catback exhaust from full throttle network on my TR. I cannot get the testpipe off because the front clamp was clamped so tight that it creased it together with the downpipe. Even if I could get it off, there is not enought room between the end of the downpipe and the front of the exhaust to put the stock catalytic converter back in. To get the car tagged, I have to pass emissions. Any suggestions on what I can do? thanks

Keller
10-08-2007, 12:57 PM
Is the downpipe a Houston style unit, eliminating the stock turbo elbow? If so, remove the entire unit and test pipe. Then replace with a stock elbow, stock downpipe, and stock type cat. (Before you ask, Summit carries a Catco unit.) You will need the lead doughnut that sits between the downpipe and elbow, too.

Then go pass emissions (with a proper chip, of course) and take it all off again.

PaCemkr86
10-08-2007, 02:44 PM
btw you can get an emissons chip from turbotweak.com

T-TopFlyer
10-08-2007, 11:16 PM
Is the downpipe a Houston style unit, eliminating the stock turbo elbow? If so, remove the entire unit and test pipe. Then replace with a stock elbow, stock downpipe, and stock type cat. (Before you ask, Summit carries a Catco unit.) You will need the lead doughnut that sits between the downpipe and elbow, too.

Then go pass emissions (with a proper chip, of course) and take it all off again.

I've got the Houston style. I don't have a stock DP just the stock cat.

What does the emissions chip do, and how would it be beneficial to my exhaust setup?

Any way to take cat internals and make a bolt-in setup, would act like a thin bolt-in mini filter between the end of the TP and the front of the catback exhaust, that I can install for inspection then remove after?

Keller
10-08-2007, 11:27 PM
Doubt it. Your NOx and/or HC will be too high. Worse if your EGR ports are blocked in the heads or EGR is removed.

T-TopFlyer
10-08-2007, 11:30 PM
Doubt it. Your NOx and/or HC will be too high. Worse if your EGR ports are blocked in the heads or EGR is removed.

EGR is there, ports are good

Survivor87
10-10-2007, 08:44 AM
There is a high flow converter available that is made to work with the Houston pipe and a typical cat-back exhaust system. (i.e. the correct length to fit between the end of the DP and the flange on the exhaust system) IF you could manage to get that test pipe off there that would be the way to go. Less of a hassle than swapping downpipes twice a year...

Keller
10-10-2007, 11:23 AM
Here emissions were only every other year. Recent changes mean no more emissions for pre OBD-II vehicles.

T-TopFlyer
10-10-2007, 01:58 PM
There is a high flow converter available that is made to work with the Houston pipe and a typical cat-back exhaust system. (i.e. the correct length to fit between the end of the DP and the flange on the exhaust system) IF you could manage to get that test pipe off there that would be the way to go. Less of a hassle than swapping downpipes twice a year...

Probably the way I'll go. Will probably have to cut the TP off though because it is creased to the DP unless I just get lucky. Emissions here is annually and includes cars 25 yrs old and newer :( I guess I could wait 5 more years to get it inspected or move to a different state :loll:

Survivor87
10-10-2007, 03:08 PM
If it's that "permanent", yes I would recommend cutting it. You don't want to put a whole lot of stress on the welds up by the turbo trying to wrestle that thing off of there. But it might require a short extension welded back to it to make up for the lost length. Post up when you solve your problem.

Survivor87
10-10-2007, 03:40 PM
Here emissions were only every other year. Recent changes mean no more emissions for pre OBD-II vehicles.

That's nice......maybe we'll get a reprieve here in Texas sometime soon. I don't mind the compliance, it is just one of those little things that comes up every year (what, it's already been a year??!!) and reminds you how fast the time flies by. Not to mention going through the motions of getting it ready to pass.

T-TopFlyer
10-10-2007, 06:16 PM
I've come across a stock downpipe and converter that I will use to pass emissions at least this time around. That is, if I can get it off the car. I had to use a lot of PB blaster to get the top bolts out, as they were kind of rusty. I can't seem to get to the bottom bolts (either the one on the turbo or the one on the pipe that bolts to the elbow) to take it out. Too many curves for a ratchet and socket, and I can't get enough leverage with a wrench. Any suggestions?

Keller
10-10-2007, 07:29 PM
Get pipe off first, and you can get PB Blaster on those. Then you can get at all the others. Use an air ratchet or air impact if you have to. An extra bar or pipe on the handle of the standard ratchet for leverage gives more torque than an air tool usually, unless you have a commercial compressor at full boogie and you are the only user. Beaucoup leverage is your friend. (Says he who has broken many studs and bolts...) Just use hi-temp thread lube when you put them in! They won't be in long, and you don't want them to get too friendly with your turbo.

T-TopFlyer
10-11-2007, 11:04 AM
....You don't want to put a whole lot of stress on the welds up by the turbo trying to wrestle that thing off of there....

Where are the welds I need to keep an eye on?

T-TopFlyer
10-11-2007, 11:08 AM
Get pipe off first, and you can get PB Blaster on those. Then you can get at all the others. Use an air ratchet or air impact if you have to. An extra bar or pipe on the handle of the standard ratchet for leverage gives more torque than an air tool usually, unless you have a commercial compressor at full boogie and you are the only user. Beaucoup leverage is your friend. (Says he who has broken many studs and bolts...) Just use hi-temp thread lube when you put them in! They won't be in long, and you don't want them to get too friendly with your turbo.

The only device I can get on the bottom bolt from pipe to elbow is a 15 mm wrench. I've got a jack handle that should fit over the end of the wrench that will hopefully provide the necessary leverage if I can get all of the angles right.

Survivor87
10-12-2007, 09:14 AM
Where are the welds I need to keep an eye on?

The ones up by the wastegate.
You would have to get pretty aggressive to break them I imagine, but if you are working on the bottom end of the pipe with it still bolted to the turbo, you have a lot of leverage against the turbo end.

Sounds like you have opted to remove the downpipe now so this is a non-factor.

T-TopFlyer
10-12-2007, 01:25 PM
The ones up by the wastegate.
You would have to get pretty aggressive to break them I imagine, but if you are working on the bottom end of the pipe with it still bolted to the turbo, you have a lot of leverage against the turbo end.

Sounds like you have opted to remove the downpipe now so this is a non-factor.

Yes, I think it's the better/safer approach.

T-TopFlyer
10-13-2007, 12:03 AM
Since I cannot separate the DP and TP, what's the best way to take the combo out of the car? Out the top or out the bottom? I don't have access to a lift if that is a factor, but do have a jack and jack stands.

T-TopFlyer
10-15-2007, 09:28 PM
Well after taking the stock DP and cat out of the parts car, I've decided that this is probably not the most efficient thing to do each annum when I have to get the car inspected.

I am now leaning toward getting an aftermarket catalytic converter that I can bolt in place of the test pipe. I am hoping to get the test pipe modified to where I can easily remove it when I need to, and replace it with the catalytic converter that may have to be modified as well.

Do the catalytic converters that fit in place of the test pipe come in different sizes or are they all the same?

Keller
10-15-2007, 11:57 PM
Out the top or out the bottom?
Bottom, probably. But without a high lift, it'll be a b!tch.

Keller
10-16-2007, 12:00 AM
Do the catalytic converters that fit in place of the test pipe come in different sizes or are they all the same?
Anything is possible. What do you need?

So long as your pipe is not completely unheard of, a solution exists. Even if it is, cold hard cash will always solve the problem somehow. :tup:

T-TopFlyer
10-16-2007, 05:45 PM
Anything is possible. What do you need?

So long as your pipe is not completely unheard of, a solution exists. Even if it is, cold hard cash will always solve the problem somehow. :tup:

I'm looking for a catalytic converter that is about the same size as the test pipe. Anyone know where I can find such an animal? I've looked at most of the online vendors, and they seem to focus on performance replacements for the stock cat. Those would be roughly the same length as a stock cat. If I do that, I might as well have the test pipe and accompanying piece of the downpipe cut out to the length of the stock cat so I can interchange those 2, but I think it will look silly. So if possible, I would rather have a cat that is about the same length as the testpipe so as not to do this. I checked on the Fullthrottle website, they used to sell this exhaust system, but the only exhaust product they sell for these cars now is the replacement mufflers. It is a 2.75 true dual catback system with testpipe and 3 inch downpipe. Surely I'm not the only one who has to do this emissions thing, so I would think there would be attractive solution(s) to this problem?

Basically I'm just wondering if anyone makes a close to direct bolt in catalytic converter replacement for the testpipe.

Keller
10-16-2007, 07:10 PM
Forget about the exhaust. Presumably it is set up to replace the stock exhaust. You are looking at the wrong thing and focusing on the wrong piece of the puzzle.

Any clue who made the downpipe? Shorter cats are made. Cats made to fit the actual Houston pipes do exist. That pipe went back further than the stock downpipe. Thus its 'test pipe' was shorter. If you can determine (a) the length of the test pipe (to the exhaust flange) and (b) the diameter of the downpipe, you should be able to find one from a vendor. I know that Red Armstrong has those, but who knows what pipe you have.

Note that Random Technologies is a company that makes many of these unique catalytic converters that aren't homebrewed by others on the bench. So either befriend a welder, or give Random a ring after you get your dimensions together. Maybe both, because what you buy may need some "adjustment", or it may need to be welded to a flange in order to work. http://www.randomtechnology.com/

T-TopFlyer
10-17-2007, 12:15 PM
Any clue who made the downpipe? Shorter cats are made. Cats made to fit the actual Houston pipes do exist. That pipe went back further than the stock downpipe. Thus its 'test pipe' was shorter. If you can determine (a) the length of the test pipe (to the exhaust flange) and (b) the diameter of the downpipe, you should be able to find one from a vendor. I know that Red Armstrong has those, but who knows what pipe you have.


From what I can deduce from receipts, the downpipe is a 3" stainless houston style that was possibly purchased from Red Armstrong. I do know that the downpipe goes back farther than the stock one, and that the test pipe is right at 12 and 1/2 inches in length.

Keller
10-17-2007, 02:03 PM
the downpipe is a 3" stainless houston style that was possibly purchased from Red Armstrong.
IF you possibly have a handwritten receipt from the previous owner(s), Red can probably confirm this. And likely has a cat to match. A muffler shop and other tools to "encourage" the test pipe off and get it back round again.

FWIW, the downpipe/testpipe connection on that setup needs no clamp, in theory. Properly expanded they should slip-fit fine. Or a wide stainless band clamp, if necessary.

T-TopFlyer
10-22-2007, 12:58 PM
Forget about the exhaust. Presumably it is set up to replace the stock exhaust. You are looking at the wrong thing and focusing on the wrong piece of the puzzle.

Any clue who made the downpipe? Shorter cats are made. Cats made to fit the actual Houston pipes do exist. That pipe went back further than the stock downpipe. Thus its 'test pipe' was shorter. If you can determine (a) the length of the test pipe (to the exhaust flange) and (b) the diameter of the downpipe, you should be able to find one from a vendor. I know that Red Armstrong has those, but who knows what pipe you have.

Note that Random Technologies is a company that makes many of these unique catalytic converters that aren't homebrewed by others on the bench. So either befriend a welder, or give Random a ring after you get your dimensions together. Maybe both, because what you buy may need some "adjustment", or it may need to be welded to a flange in order to work. http://www.randomtechnology.com/

Called Red Armstrong and confirmed that I have a Terry Houston 3 inch DP. The TP/cutout is 12 and 3/8. They don't have the cats as of now, but used to. Thanks for the link to random, that will likely be my next step unless I can find another source that stocks these cats.

T-TopFlyer
10-22-2007, 07:37 PM
Randomtechnologies offers a universal catalytic converter that can probably be made to work, but it will require some craftywork. The cat they make specifically for the 3 inch downpipe on turbo buicks is 15 and 1/2 inches in length, the stock one is about 17 and 1/2 inches so it does save a couple inches. To make that work, I would have to cut the exhaust and/or downpipe ~ 3 and 1/2 inches and have the testpipe extended that same length. I would also likely have flanges attached to the ends of each unit to make this a convenient bolt in bolt out deal.

Before I do this, does anyone know of a source for the exact fit catalytic converter that Red Armstrong used to sell or have a better idea?

Keller
10-23-2007, 02:44 AM
The TP/cutout is 12 and 3/8.
Just a head-check: Is TP or DP a larger diameter? I suspect the former.

T-TopFlyer
10-23-2007, 07:51 AM
Just a head-check: Is TP or DP a larger diameter? I suspect the former.

Correct. The TP slides over the end of the 3 inch downpipe.

T-TopFlyer
10-24-2007, 11:08 AM
I'm not able to locate a catalytic converter that will work at any of the turbo regal vendors. I found this online. Anyone have any opinions about this? thanks

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/powercat.htm

Keller
10-24-2007, 12:59 PM
Could be the ticket. And that price even beats Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PYE%2DCVM13&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Will still need a flange crafted and welded on the end, but that should not be that big a deal.

T-TopFlyer
10-24-2007, 09:32 PM
Could be the ticket. And that price even beats Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PYE%2DCVM13&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Will still need a flange crafted and welded on the end, but that should not be that big a deal.

Could the back flange on the stock converter be cut off and possibly used on the end of this converter?

Keller
10-25-2007, 03:31 AM
I guess. However, the main hole may need to be opened for flow.