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Ralph Cordell
11-21-2008, 06:44 PM
Okay - you never know what you got til its gone. My 87 GN was stolen, recovered and sat in my drive for 7 years. Some of it was under a tarp and some was in the open. I finally got it going and decided to repent of my negligent ways - it now sports a Lojack as well as other goodies to deter folks. It has a ruffled spot on the rear quarter panel from the thieves sliding into something, a ding along the roof rail from a tree limb and a few other much smaller dents on the roof and trunk, pine sap spots and needs a new paint job. Except for a couple of spots where the paint chipped off no rust on the sheet metal (car never saw salt).

I've some experience with body work (took a 59 MGA down to the metal) and have a number of gearhead friends who have volunteered to help.

My plan is to pull/pound out the major dents and lead them over and either glaze or lead the smaller ones. Take off the lights, badges, bumpers, etc. Give the whole thing a really good wet sand down to the base coat and take it over to a local paint shop.

Questions:

Any advantage on taking it down to the metal? (I have air and a sander)

What types of paint do you recommend?

Any advantage to multiple clear coat layers?

The number 1 objective is final appearance - pride of sweat equity is 2 - cost is 3.

Any input will be appreciated.

-ralph cordell

06_vrscr
11-22-2008, 08:34 PM
Questions:

Any advantage on taking it down to the metal? (I have air and a sander)

You can find any other problems or imperfections

What types of paint do you recommend?

Base/clear PPG paint is all i use but it would really depend on who you get to paint your car

Any advantage to multiple clear coat layers?

The car can look like the pain is a foot thick and flawless if its done right.

The number 1 objective is final appearance - pride of sweat equity is 2 - cost is 3.

Any input will be appreciated.