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rkh3
04-27-2009, 09:35 AM
OK, this is strange. Before I changed the water pump Friday, it was leaking, the temps never went over 190-195, now 210-220. All I did Friday is swapped out the pump (NAPA replacement) and pulled the radiator cause the top hose neck needed to be resoldered. The radiator guy pointed out corrosion along the radiator seams and said eventually it would start seeping.
Yesterday I changed the thermostat to a 160, it was bad anyways, almost no heat. Took it for a ride afterwards and the temp still climbs to 210-220, climbs faster on the hwy. The fan is working.
Now I am thinking it might be 1) a bad water pump 2) I suppose taking the radiator out could have dislogded some crap in it which could be blocking openings. What do you guys think??? I am out of ideas.

Keller
04-27-2009, 11:15 AM
Some thoughts:

- You might have an air bubble in the coolant. I would run it through several thermostat open/close cycles idling with the cap removed to try to purge any such bubbles.
- Do you have the thermostat installed the correct way? The "pointy" part sticks out, the "flat" part goes in.
- Do you have the proper heat range thermostat?
- Did the temp sensor get disturbed during the process?
- It is possible that some junk got cut loose in the radiator. Or that the water pump simply is not as efficient.

rkh3
04-27-2009, 11:44 AM
Just spoke with the radiator guy who soldered the neck, he said the radiator was really a mess and with the temps we had this weekend, high 80s/90, he is convinced the radiator is the culprit. Dropping it off tomorrow to be recored. Hope that is it, sounds like it, it's expensive.

rkh3
04-27-2009, 02:22 PM
Actually decided to order a new aluminum radiator, s/b here is a couple days. The more I think about what the mechanic said the more it makes sense.
Saved $$ too, to recore would be $350, new radiator, including shipping is $120

Keller
04-27-2009, 02:53 PM
Um....does that radiator have both the trans and oil coolers? I bet it doesn't.

You'd probably be well ahead to just do the F-body radiator swap and install your own trans and oil coolers, anyway. I bet it will be even cheaper. See the tech article we have in the web site that tells you how to do it.

rkh3
04-27-2009, 03:38 PM
I have no plans to race the car, do I really need an oil cooler?

Keller
04-27-2009, 04:07 PM
Phil doesn't think so. GM put one there. *shrug*

PaCemkr86
04-27-2009, 04:48 PM
LOL, I dont run engine oil coolers once the engine blows up, but thats my preference.

I really like the f-body swap radiator, it works well, and they are readily available at any auto parts store.

Did you check the price on the direct replacement radiators over here, is has both coolers and is aluminum
http://buickgn.com/aluminum%20radiators.htm

http://buickgn.com/myalumrad2.JPG
i really like these

rkh3
04-27-2009, 05:05 PM
I didn't see those, but I paid $200 less for mine.

I have a large front mounted intercooler. Would adding an oil cooler in front of that be overkill? After all I already have the intercooler blocking some of the air.

PaCemkr86
04-27-2009, 05:12 PM
what kind did you get?

rkh3
05-08-2009, 04:56 PM
A Spectra CU951 from RockAuto.com

Keller
05-09-2009, 12:51 AM
That's an F-body unit. Should work well.