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black87buick
12-09-2011, 07:03 PM
Looking for some assistance.

I am finally committing myself to rebuilding my 87 GN engine.


History:

Previous owner had the engine "rebuilt and drove less than 500 miles" before the lower end noise was heard. His plans were to drag race and “had only a few passes on it”. He proceeded to tear engine down and have a reputable Buick builder (machinist) examine engine.

-Heads, intake etc port polished and look great.
-Have a 5051E Turbo - needs rebuilt
-Have a 6162E Turbo - that was installed prior to the teardown. (I believe it will need to be rebuilt because of the possibility of bearing material being caught in it.
-Alcohol injection - wasn't planning to build it to need it but it came with the car.
-Scan master 2.1 and so many chips (7) I don't know what to do with.
-60# injectors and hotwired fuel pump...pump unknown at this time but is in working condition.
-3000rpm stall converter and stock converter - transmission is out of car also. No reported issue with it.

My plans for the car are a nice street machine.

I did review the recipe section for engine build, but I noticed (based on my research) those part numbers don't align with the local part shops so it appear OEM isn’t available.

I have reviewed Rock auto, Autozone, OReilly’s, and PepBoys. Other than subtle price differences, I see NAPA is as easy to identify parts as Rock Auto, but if I have an issue with any parts prior to install it will be easy to return to my local NAPA store. So, I will go with NAPA unless you disagree.

I do not know the reason why the crank bearings (rods and mains) failed...
I have inspected the remnants, all bearing are marked as standard (std). Maybe the issue was in the crank itself or oil pump. I don’t know (I have not inspected oil pump-yet).

Crank:
Original was trashed this is the reason why I bought the car. I have a standard replacement crank from another 109 block. I triple checked measurements with a caliper and all come out to standard size.


Block:
After previous owner wiped the crank he had the block dropped off at a reputable Buick machinist - after purchasing the car I picked up the block from the machinist. He stated that nothing is needed at best cleaning the deck. In his words “not necessary for a street car”. Block is prepped and ready for rebuild.

Cam:
I see some cam wear, but the lifters look worse so I am looking to just purchase a cam/lifter kit.

Lifter:
I will buy new ones. I know AC Delcos are recommended according to the recipe section on the forum, but I did not find a full set. Ebay was the only place I found some and the guy only had 9.

Other info:
Heads, intake etc port polished and look great.
Have a 5051E Turbo - needs rebuilt
Have a 6162E Turbo - that was installed prior to the teardown.
Its got alcohol injection - wasn't planning to build it to need it but it came with the car.
Its got scan master 2.1 and so many chips (7) I don't know what to do with.
Its got 60# injectors and hotwired fuel pump...pump tested and works.
I've 3000rpm stall converter and stock converter - transmission is out of car also. No reported issue with it.

At this time here are the following parts I need assistance with. Do these parts look correct? Would you recommend them or do you recommend something else.

NAPAonline.com

Bearings and Lower end:
KIT2056018M - $239.00

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=KIT2056018M_0184416056&An=599001+101987+50008+2008024+521141+598999+50402 5+504499+503003+503499+4008022+5999999+25013&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA)

Cam/Lifter:
KIT KC792 - $154.00

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=KITKC792_0184416052&An=599001+101987+50008+2008024+521141+598999+50402 5+504499+503003+503499+4008022+5999999+25013&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA)

Thank you

kenmosher
12-09-2011, 09:03 PM
Sounds like you've done your homework ... just a couple "been there, done thats"...

- Lifters ... do NOT cheap out here. Get very good known quality (again, GM seems to be the best and most consistent)
- Be sure to break the cam with ZDDP and lower spring pressure (if you can)
- Don't get cheap bearings (rod/main) either. Get the "flashed" or coated severe duty style with the steel/copper/babbit/ construction with moly coating. These usually don't look "pretty" out of the box (no flash tinning for shiny look). They are "raw" babbit material and may look brown/splotchy. This is actually a good thing!