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jds
04-08-2005, 08:58 PM
I painted the t type this past fall, driving it home from my buddies place where I painted it the brakes failed (saw my new paint job going bye, bye) turned out to be the fuse blew, then this spring when I broke it back out the pressure switch was leaking and brakes started acting up again. To make a long story longer, I just got done switching it over to vacuum. I got a rebuilt master cylinder and dual diaphram (cardone units), new check valve, tta vacuum block, and vacuum brake pedal. I bench bleed the master cylinder, made sure the master cylinder push rod was adjusted properly, and bleed the entire brake system starting at right rear, left rear, right front then left front. I had the wife earn her keep and run the pedal for me. I bleed each corner at least 15 times. took it out and drove it and the pedal is a little soft, it stops the car but , I can bottom it out and it won't hold any boost. The pedal takes a second to return to the relaxed position also, and seems to be dragging the brakes as it returns to neutral. Could I have not bleed it enough? or is there something I am missing? Any help from the all knowing (or more knowing than I) would be appreciated. Thannks Jeff

Keller
04-10-2005, 03:24 AM
Did you use a vacuum system pedal/arm when you did the conversion, or retain the one from the Powermaster?

jds
04-10-2005, 07:47 AM
I used a vacuum system pedal from the only g body I could find in a junk yard around here, It came out of a 305 86 cutlass. A g body is a g body right? or does the pedal assembly have to be from a regal or monte. thanks jeff

jds
04-10-2005, 09:38 AM
Also, I rebled the brakes and the left rear I continuously get air out of, all the others are fine just this one, I have run about a litre of fluid through it and still air. What am I doing wrong? I am assuming this is what is causing my pedal issues, sound right? or like something else to anyone. thanks for the help. jeff