wont start

[kwcook]

I pulled my t type out of the garage to clean up, and when I went to pull it back in it wouldn't start. The starter is cranking and it seams to be getting gas. I thought the fuel filter may be the problem so I got a new one and still no luck. I have new plugs and wires and the car has always started witout having to pump it or anything.

Maybe I need a new Coil pack?? :confused:

Any info would be a help thanks. :D

[pfredricks]

K-Dub,

It could be your coil pack, or your crank sensor or your cam sensor.

Can you hear the fuel pump buzz when you turn the key to the "on" position without turning the engine over? You should hear the pump run for about 5 seconds then shut off. If you don't then you have a problem with the fuel system.

Have a buddy help you check for spark across the electrodes of a spark plug. If the plug is wet when you pull it out then dry it off, but I'd bet that its an electrical problem if its wet.

Not sure what you mean by "pump it" :confused: These animal's don't operate like in the old carbureted days of pumping fuel into the intake. You can pump the accelerator, but it won't do much more than open the throttle blade and let more air into the motor. :(

[kwcook]

the spark to me appears weak and inconsistant. The fuel pump does kick on and goes off in about 5 seconds. The plugs are wet when pulled and have carbon on them. I just changed plugs and wires a bout 40 miles ago.

I have got the car started and it is running very rough. I am not for sure what the car would sound like if it is missing out but it has no power.

Any help is appreciated. Sorry took so long to respond

Thanks :cheers:

[pfredricks]

K-Dub,

So you have fuel, that points to electrical or spark timing. I'd focus on the coil pack/ignition module or crank sensor or cam sensor. There are other sensors that can cause this problem, but these are the more likely candidates.

How long can you keep the motor running? I'd bet that the exhaust black and sooty while it is running.

If you can keep it running about 90 seconds you should get your ECM to log an error code if it sees the problem.

I take it that your "Service Engine Soon" light is not on?

Do you have access to a scan tool such as Turbolink?

:seeya:

[kwcook]

the motor will run and I am able to drive it and let it idle. The car just isnt worth driving when it is runig this rough. when you turn your car off is the fuel pressure gauge supposed to go to zero right away? Mine goes down to about 30 and stays there for awhile.
I think there is an exhaust leak in my exhaust housing somewhere. I think there is a gap where the two pieces meet(not where the up pipe and downpipe connect but where the two pieces meet) would this type of upstream exchaust leak cause the car to run this rough?
If the leak would cause the car to run rough it still dosent explain why it didnt start. Im leaning towards the coil.

I have a cheap OTC 2000 and isnt reading any errors so far.

[Drivenmenuts]

You state your fuel pressure goes to zero and 30 after you shut it off. Which is it? Here's what you need to do to rule out your injectors: Key on, engine off for the 2-3 second prime. Fuel pressure (~30lbs) shouldn't drop much more than a few pounds after 20 minutes. If it drops to zero, you probably have an injector(s) leaking really bad.

If the system holds pressure you need to start the engine and unplug your MAF connector while it's idling, causing the ECM to go into backup mode. If the engine runs smoother there's a good chance the sensor is garbage.

[pfredricks]

K-Dub,

I'd say your fuel pressure at 30 lbs is normal. Like Nuts says, it should stay there for 20 minutes. Any less than that and it's a problem with your injectors.

I'd say that a leaky exhaust is not your problem. It's common to have exhaust leaks on these cars, but it simply degrades your performance.

I notice that you have the 4" cold air intake and a 9 inch K&N filter. I have a similar setup and at first I had the MAF in backwards :crackup: . This caused the exact same problems you mention having with your car.

[kwcook]

my car goes down to 30 when I turn it off. So turn the key to prime for a few seconds then turn key off, and if the preassure drops below 30 psi in about twenty minutes, it is possible I have a problem with my injectors? I will give this a try and also test the maf. I will let you know tomorrow.

Thansk For the help, I have been having inernet problems with my computer sorry for the wait

[kwcook]

alright, I turned the key on for about 3 seconds and the preasure was around 40-42. Turned the key off and it went down to about 38-40. after 14 minutes it was down to about 23 and at 20 minutes it was down to 20.

What do you guys think?

After I did that I checked the maf. I started the car and then pulled out the connection to the MAF and the car died. The next two times I tried it the car ideled with the maf disconnected but died when I reconnected it

(Also just noticed a tiny crack by the bolt on the throttle body, what is going on with this car :banghead: )

Thanks for the hep so far, I might be needing some parts in the near future :cheers:

[pfredricks]

K-Dub

> I started the car and then pulled out the connection to the MAF
> and the car died.

Did the Service Engine Soon light turn on when you pulled the connector to the MAF?

Did you try reading the error codes with your "cheap OTC 2000" after pulling the MAF connector?

Do you have access to a volt meter such that you could check various signals?

> Also just noticed a tiny crack by the bolt on the throttle body...

I'd say you've got bigger problems than that tiny crack.

Do you have any friends with a similar car that you can swap some parts to test?

[kwcook]

I noticed it the first time but it did go off I didnt hook the otc up to it. Today I am going to check the fuel injectors for leaks and take care of the exhaust leak. I decided to start converting some things to the 86-87 models. All my parts are original and they are slowly not performing like they should.
Is this a wise Decision?

Thinking
LT1 MAF
86-87 ECM
86-87 coil and ignition

What do you guys think? Proceed and replace the above or do you feel these upgrades arent necessary.

Thanks For the Help

[Keller]

If you start mixing upgrades in with your existing problems, you'll have no idea of where the problems start and end. I think you're headed down a very dangerous road.

Why not analyze the real problems and get everything working status quo first before you start throwing other parts into the mix? Using a voltmeter and scan tool to help would be really importatnt at this point. Without some information, our suggestions don't mean much.

[kwcook]

I have a volt meter, But i have only used one once. What would yhou guys recommend I test first,

[kwcook]

I am all ears. I just wnat to get everything straightened out with this car so I can drive it and have it run efficiently. Almost everyone on this site has more knowledge of these cars than I do so any recommendations would be appreciated. I am knew to tunning these cars and the whole volt meter thing. The ken duttweiler exhaust is on along with a 160 stat. I did put the old intake back on to see if that made adifference but it didnt so the cold air intake is still on. I have a 93 chip and a stock chip.

Thanks for the help so far :cheers: