What Rear Shoes

[IL KIM]

Left Rear brakes are locking up on me. No leaks. Tried searching archives - thought there was a long thread with people arguing about what shoes are best...

Anyway, any recommendations for mfg or supplier? ( I have EBC pads on my truck and love the stopping distance improvement, but not sure they make shoes). Also heard getting 2 sets per side and using the longer shoes on front and rear of drum help stopping distance?

Thanks.

[Keller]

The long shoes can help stopping, but also help holding the car back at the line with a footbrake for launches.

If you are not drag racing the car, a metallic shoe is probably best. (Non-metallic ones are for the drags) I found that the Satisfied ProTech B514 bonded (not rivited) metallic pad seemed to work well and was fairly inexpensive. Was available via Tire Rack. Sadly, mine got leaked on with rear end lube before I got a lot of time on them. Ended up with some AutoZone non-metallics for now.

There aren't that many 'performance' rear shoes for these cars. Most of the braking is done on the front, anyway.

Really want some strong rear braking? Put some rear wheel cylinders in from a '84 S-S10 with manual brakes. They are a wee bit larger. (1/8"?)

[kna4977]

Left Rear brakes are locking up on me. No leaks.

Have you cleaned them really well with brake parts cleaner? I had the exact same problem, same wheel. Everyone seemed to lead me toward an axle bearing, but I didn't have any leaks either. I had a metallic sludge in there....I think it was lot of brake dust accumulation maybe from sitting a lot, possibly in a damp environment such as a basement which allowed moisture to bond the brake dust to the pads, I don't know, but .....I had to clean mine twice, but I haven't had the problem since......

Here's a link to my experience

http://www.gnttype.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7864

[zeus87gn]

Left Rear brakes are locking up on me. No leaks.

Your brakes are out of adjustment or that cylinder is leaking and locking up when it warms up. Contamination is a definite possibility. Have you looked at them (removed the drum) to tell?

FWIW, I have standard replacement semi-metallic padds and shoes. When properly adjusted, they work just fine on the street under normal conditions. Panic stopping is fine as long as your not doing 100mph.

[IL KIM]

Thanks guys. Will pull the drum and check, but thought I would have new shoes on hand first, so I don't have to wait or put them back together to wait for parts.

The car sat a lot in last 13 years and I fixed the front brakes locking up last year with Kellers advise. I'm guessing it's moisture related, living next to a lake and my "damp" garage. Happens on sudden brake apply, virtually any speed.

I'm more interested in street performance than longevity. So, Keller, why metallic instead of non? And I thought the riveted ones were better for wearing and something to do with retaining its shape as they wear?

Will look for the axle leak and thanks for the link guys. I did hear about the larger cylinders and plan to do someday - not now. Tired of mopping up fluids from the garage floor recently and also bled brakes last fall! Another day.

[Keller]

So, Keller, why metallic instead of non? And I thought the riveted ones were better for wearing and something to do with retaining its shape as they wear?
There aren't many non-metallic shoes out there. These have a lot of metal and a very aggressive compound.

The riveted shoes have less pad area. The bonded ones are bonded well enough and the shoe metal is tough enough that I wouldn't be concerned about heat warp. You aren't going to be doing laps at LeMans or anything.

[zeus87gn]

Tired of mopping up fluids from the garage floor recently and also bled brakes last fall! Another day.
A length of appropriately sized clear vinyl tubing from your local hardware store stick on the tip of the bleeder screw and into a catch can (jar - bottle - whatever) will solve that problem. It will also aid in helping to keep air from getting back into the bleeder screw during the bleeding process.

HTH

[Keller]

Use the Russell "Speed Bleeders" wouldn't hurt, either.

[IL KIM]

A length of appropriately sized clear vinyl tubing from your local hardware store stick on the tip of the bleeder screw and into a catch can (jar - bottle - whatever) will solve that problem. It will also aid in helping to keep air from getting back into the bleeder screw during the bleeding process.

HTH

Thanks. I know; I have the bleeder kit with the tube and check ball to do it yourself. Just want to spend more time tuning/driving instead of fixing right now.

[IL KIM]

Scott; did you have to adjust the rear prop valve when you put your shoes on?

[IL KIM]

Russell Speed Bleeders let you bleed the brake lines on just about any vehicle all by yourself. Just replace the old bleeder screws with the Speed Bleeders. The Speed Bleeders have an internal check valve that will pump excess air and fluid out for you. A special coating on the Speed Bleeders' threads keep it from admitting air into the system, and keeps expelled air and fluid out. When you're done, just tighten the screws and go on the the next brake cylinder.

Rears are 8mm x 1.25 (RUS-639520). $10.00 on summit for a pair. Thanks for the tip Scott.

[Keller]

Scott; did you have to adjust the rear prop valve when you put your shoes on?

I did have to crank the rear 'adjusters' in at each rear wheel when installing the rear shoes. Nothing had to be done to any proportioning valve, however.

It may seem 'grabby' at first with the large shoes and/or large cylinders, but that will go away in time.