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View Full Version : Reliability questions...Please help.


1Bad87
05-21-2007, 11:15 AM
OK... My dream car is, of course, an '87 Grand National/T-Type. I am not in the financial position to own any more cars than I already do but I am starting to get impatient trying to save enough money for a TR that would just sit in the garage save for the weekend romp so I am contemplating purchasing one for a daily driver. The problem is I owned one previously (it was stored by my father for a while) and it never really worked right. I have also had a nightmare of a time with a 1993 Typhoon that I once owned (I got it "good" but it took a while, and a lot of money). I realize that the answers I get here will be somewhat bias but what are your feelings on using a TR for daily duties (reliability, etc). Should I go this route or go for a 1996 Camaro SS/1994 Firehawk?

AbeWhat
05-21-2007, 12:00 PM
my main considerations for reliability are mileage, maintenace, etc. all of the obvious stuff with any car you want to rely heavily on. Specifically for a TR, how cold/wet/snowy are your winters? I drove my 100k+ mile daily with no probs until the temp went sub zero. Once that happened the coputer couldnt deal with a low air/coolant temp, ran rich, etc. That was my experience with an unbeliaveabley cold Chicago winter. If you live in arizona and drive 10 miles to work, it might not be bad. But all of this is assuming the vehicle is maintained well before you go ahead. If you did get one to drive daily, I would reccomend fixing everything(+ spring cleaning)you could afford before you started using it. Starting with the powertrain and working your way out. My 2 cents.

1Bad87
05-21-2007, 02:17 PM
I live in South Florida so no issues with cold weather (68 degrees here and people put the leather jackets on). But I do drive to South Carolina and back often (600 miles one way) and would want to make sure I can make it without using AAA. When you say "fix everything" what does "everything" mean? Are you talking swapping out fluids and lube everything I can or are there actual "problem areas" I need to fix?

Keller
05-21-2007, 03:12 PM
For a reliable TR, I would suggest a low mile (preferably sub 50k, but anything less than 100k is "low mile" at this point) car with a minimum of modifications. There are a few modifications that are done in the interest of reliability, but many of the modifications done to add power or strength also make the cars incompatible with standard parts and difficult to fix if you don't know what parts are on them.

Start with an original-as-possible car, and make any changes yourself. That way you can account for what is different from stock.

AbeWhat
05-22-2007, 10:27 AM
I guess I should have clarified, haha. I meant if the trans or motor isnt A+, diagnose it before you put 10k miles a year on the car. Fix the obvious issues before worrying about the paint chip or the seat tear. That's just my opinion. The other suggestions were great, also.

socalgn
05-22-2007, 11:11 AM
Keller has a great point- the closer to stock, the better. There have been so many 'recipes' that people have used to make the cars perform, you never know what you'll end up with in a modded car!

Remember that it's just a car, and things can break/fail. I drive mine every day, about 80 miles round trip, and love it!

kna4977
05-31-2007, 06:39 PM
Remember that it's just a car, and things can break/fail......love it!

I hope I can take this statement to heart...... I bought a sub 50K car, it was just fine, and probably still would be if I hadn't taken it to a mechanic for a rear main seal replacement and the dyno around the same time for a baseline before I decided to go further. As long as the car is as original as possible, never abused or modded, and never taken to people for service who have standards above average it will be dependable. These cars are great. I love mine, eventhough it is slightly crippled currently. At this point, and it may just be me, but in my experience, nobody cares as much about "your" car as you do, so be careful who you take it to. Make sure they are comfortable working on "collector" cars, cause that is the phase that is currently taking off with these cars. It always has been, but it seems to be on a rise currently.........Also, if at all possible, do as many repairs yourself, (and very thoroughly) as possible. I say this because I am usually dissapointed with the job others do. Standards today are at best mediocre.....Good luck, and if you want as little worry as possible, buy a civic under warranty for a daily driver. It will cost you about the same and offer lower maintenance. The other extreme would be a Turbo Regal. What's the fun vs frustration factor difference though?

nova
06-07-2007, 12:03 PM
I drive mine about 100 miles a day. Have had no reliability problems (other than the A/C). I started off with a totally stock '87 T. with 68K, now has about 118K. Minor upgrades include a John Meyer's TA-61, Bosch 868 injectors, adjustable FPR, 89 TTA fuel pump, various chips, air bags, Houston DP, ATR exhaust, etc.

It became my daily driver when I had to start driving 100+ miles a day, the Jeep only gets about 16 mpg and the '68 SS is lucky to get 8 mpg, so the Buick's 25+ mpg got the nod.

socalgn
06-07-2007, 12:24 PM
KNA,

get ahold of George at Boost Performance in Amarillo:

http://www.boost-performance.com/

It's a ways from you , but they know their stuff!

HTH

Fast_t_type
06-07-2007, 05:11 PM
So you want a daily driver. I would also love to have one as a daily driver but I live where the snow flies all winter long. LOL Just like all these guys have said in the posts are right on the money. Also make sure the bottom of the car has no rust especially the frame rails that run over the back half of the car behind the tires. They have been known to rust and brake. Then the trunk and back half sags but where you live it shouldn't be a prob. It something to watch for. The reason I say also to check the bottom because I'm sure you want to keep the car for awhile? If the car is spot less under the bottom or close enough the cars should last a life time. Just have it diamond coated and you'll never have to worry again. This stuff does cost money but in the long run you'll never look back. The best part is the better the body and uncarriage you start with the longer you have time to get it coated. The only reason I say this is because of the hot humid air and that air has a little salt in it unless your not buy the coast but hay if your going to keep the car them its better to do it right the first time.
Paul

PaCemkr86
06-07-2007, 05:53 PM
my daily driver runs low 11's and is very far from stock, i drive it 300+ miles round trip to the dragstrip and race the crap out of it, and i hammer it hard everyday to and from work for the past 2 years..

its the one of the right

http://www.ccstreetscene.com/multimedia/phil/Buick%20stuff/Buicstuff2/gnttype1.JPG

kna4977
06-07-2007, 11:38 PM
KNA,

get ahold of George at Boost Performance in Amarillo:

http://www.boost-performance.com/

It's a ways from you , but they know their stuff!

HTH

Thanks, will check it out. Hope to get the car performing up to the standards I originally intended it to