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Old 11-21-2008, 02:58 AM
jakeshoe jakeshoe is offline
The Trans Guy
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 25
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Default Re: 200-4R Rebuild ... step by step!

Back by popular demand,
I eventually plan to update this and put it on my own website but here it is until I have time to get around to that project.

I don't have the time at the moment to check the posts daily although I try to answer questions as time permits. My email is the best way to contact me for questions.

jakeshoe@yahoo.com

The 200-4R is an excellent choice for a street or street/strip overdrive transmission IF you do the proper upgrades to keep it alive.

There are a few weaknesses that must be addressed. If you are below the 350HP/TQ level, a near stock 200-4R with a Grand National Servo, upgraded 2nd band, hardened sun shell and pump stator shaft, valve body recalibration kit, and boost valves will serve you very well.

Once you surpass the 350HP/TQ level an improved forward drum is a very important upgrade. There are several of these on the market. There are hardened/heat-treated/cryro'd drums and there are drums modified with a "billet" shaft.
I believe the billet shaft models are the best bet. These are available from www.CKperformance.com.

Also important is the direct clutch configuration at higher power levels. I firmly believe that dual feeding is the ultimate answer. It does however REQUIRE that you use a billet forward drum. I also like using Alto Red clutches with a stock 6 count and stock thick direct steel plates.

A larger billet servo becomes necessary at over 450 HP/TQ and in heavy cars it is preferred at lower power levels. My advice is that if you use the billet servos, you retain the large cushion spring despite what the manufacturers instructions recommend.

Disassembly:


Remove the shifter lever, speedometer housing and driven gear, pump bolts (13mm), and then tap the servo cover on the passenger side of the case with a rubber mallet to dislodge it and gain access to the servo snap ring. Remove the snap ring with a flat tip screwdriver at the notch in the bottom of the case.
Grab the servo cover with a pair of channel locks and spin, wiggle it loose.
Remove the servo assembly.


Remove the pan bolts and pan.
Remove the filter.
Unbolt the TCC solenoid near the front of the case, it will have 2 wires going to it.
Remove the governor cover from the rear pan area. (4) 13mm bolts. Remove the governor.

Remove the wiring, 1-2 accumulator housing, parking pawl bracket, transfer tube, and valve body bolts.
The valve body should now be loose and can be disconnected from the shift linkage and set aside.
The 3-4 accumulator piston and spring can be removed from the case, as well as the check balls, 2 10mm center support bolts, and band pin.
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