Super Quick Shifting/ No downshifts??? - GN and T-Type Performance Enthusiasts (GNTTYPE) Forums

tmack6 · #1 08-05-2009, 10:26 PM

I recently blew the trans in my 84 TTYPE so I had to find another one. My car has an 86/87 Drivetrain/ECM. I located and purchased another BRF 200r4 from an 87 GN. This trans sat for about 3 years without being ran so I had it serviced and installed with a remanufactured D5 convertor. It does not leak or slip however there are a couple of issues I wanted to ask about.

1. The trans is running through the gears excessively fast. 1st gear shifts to 2nd @ 1500 rpm. 2nd to 3rd @ 2500 rpm and 3rd to OD at 2800 rpm.

2. The trans will not downshift @ WOT. I adjusted the TV cable acoording to the instructions on gnttype.org however the problem still persists.

3. I shorted the F terminal @ the ALDL connector with ground and heard no click from the TCC solenoid.

4. I checked for a blown fuse but didnt see a slot for it. I read here that the fuse is 10a and labled ecm/sol. I pulled all 10a fuses and they checked out ok.

5. The last trans locked up just fine before it took a shizzzzzzle on me.

So basically I wanted to ask...would a bad TCC solenoid cause these problems?

Is the fuse location labled differently for the TCC on my 84 TR?

Does the General still offer the TCC sol for this trans?

Keller · #2 08-05-2009, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmack6

So basically I wanted to ask...would a bad TCC solenoid cause these problems?

Don't think so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmack6

Is the fuse location labled differently for the TCC on my 84 TR?

Don't think so. Should be the ECM/SOL fuse.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmack6

Does the General still offer the TCC sol for this trans?

Yes. As does the aftermarket. But that is not likely your problem.

My bet is that its one of the following:
1) The governor is buggered or not original.
2) The speedo gears are not the ones that came in the trans. (Both 1 and 2 can affect shift point behavior quite a bit.)
3) The guy who did the trans swapped the TR governor/speedo gears/valve body with a non-TR trans. (Any chance the guy who did the trans works at an Aamco? Or you had it done at Aamco?)
4) There are internal leaks in the trans pump and/or valve body.

As for the TCC issue, that will have to be diagnosed step-by-step through the system. Provided the trans pump is set up to be lockup, the converter is a lockup type, and the TCC solenoid is operational and connected, it should operate and be heard when the ALDL pin is shorted.

tmack6 · #3 08-06-2009, 02:38 AM

I had the trans installed by a local builder who did not touch the valve body at all nor anything but the filter, front pump seal and rear seal on the trans. The previous owner of the trans told me he had the shift points adjusted so it is possible that things may not be TR in the trans. This kinda sucks because all that I have read in this section was pointing towards a badd TCC.

tmack6 · #4 08-06-2009, 04:48 AM

How hard is it to change the governor out?

Keller · #5 08-06-2009, 11:04 AM

Not too hard. It requires removal of the pan (and fluid). There is a separate cover for it with four bolts toward the rear of the pan. When you remove it, the unit should come out when the cover comes off. Don't drop it on the ground.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/tran...n/governor.jpg

TCI and others sell what is allegedly the correct governor as well.

tmack6 · #6 08-08-2009, 11:57 PM

Thanks for the tips!!! I'm gonna drop the pan next weekend and see if the VB has been changed by the previous owner. I will also take the governor and TCC from my old trans and install them on this one. If the VB is not the correct coded one I will also install the old one (after its cleaned up of course). While the VB is out I might as well throw a shift kit on it.

Do you have anymore links to VB removal/installation procedures?
What might be causing the no downshift condition? Ive adjusted the cable a few times with no luck. Someone mentioned the TV valve may be bad.

Keller · #7 08-09-2009, 01:56 AM

Dropping the valve body is not too difficult. All the bolts that go through it have to be removed. However, do it carefully. And be aware of which bolts come out of which holes, as they are of a few different lengths. And there are checkballs in different locations that need to be put back. Plus, you will need valve body gaskets. Those should be included in a shift kit.

Chances are the TV itself would be sticking more than the cable being bad.